99 Laroche 
Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos 1996 $82
Sexy, racy Chablis that shows this wonderful '96 vintage at its best.  Full-bodied yet elegant, it packs loads of mineral, honey, ripe pear, tangerine and wet earth flavors in a subtle, round, seductive package that should only get better with cellaring.  Long, multilayered finish.  Tempting now, but this monument will hold through 2010, perhaps beyond.  800 cases made.

94 Laroche 
Chablis Premier Cru Les Fourchaumes 1996 $40
Polished like a diamond, this full-bodied, full-throttle, bold '96 Chablis invades the palate like an unstoppable army, firing salvos of lemon, pear, honey, mineral and flinty flavors that keep rippling to a long and harmonious finish.  Great stuff.  Drink now through 2010.

98 Laroche 
Chablis Grand Cru Les Blanchots Réserve de l'Obédiencerie 1996 $110
This clever wine extracts maximum mileage from heavily toasted, violet-scented, fancy new oak, yet remains ethereal in its balance, supple in texture and enormously ripe, with luscious, almost late-harvest flavors.  Full-bodied and sweet-tasting, this delicious young Chardonnay is a ringing effort even by the high level of the vintage.  Decant and serve at room temperature now, or try after 2005.  400 cases made.

88 Laroche
Chablis St.-Martin 1996 $23
With wonderful, ripe fruit, good acidity and a sweet character, this full-bodied village wine delivers plenty of butter and spice flavors.  Slightly spritzy, with a pure, clean and long finish.  Try after 2003.  3,500 cases made.