DOMAINE LAROCHE (CHABLIS)*
The Wine Advocate, April 30, 1998

Michel Laroche, the dapper director of this large Chablis producer, stated he had not witnessed a vintage comparable to 1996 in the thirty years he has been crafting wines. Laroche sighted the bright sun (luminosité) that drove up sugar levels through photosynthesis while cool temperatures (22C daytime and 4C evening) maintained high acidity levels.  He went on to say that 1996 is 10% richer in sugar and 10% higher in acidity than 1995, another excellent Chablis vintage.  Furthermore, he said that in 1997 his wines attained high sugar levels from heat, not sun, and therefore had low acidity levels.

According to Michel Laroche, the estate harvests its grand crus and "almost all" its premier crus by hand.  Produced from 30 year old vines, one-third of the Chablis Les Fourchaumes is made in stainless steel, one-third in 5,000 liter foudres, and the balance in small oak barrels (10% of the assembled wine was aged in new oak).  Displaying minerals, stones, flowers and smoke on the nose, it has a medium body, crisp texture and well-delineated steel and flint flavors.  It should be at its best between 1999 and 2003.  The Chablis Blanchots (2,000 case production from 4.6 hectares – 40 hectoliters per hectare) is 100% barrel fermented, 20% of which are new.  It exhibits spicy oak, minerals and smoky hickory aromas and an oily, thick, luscious, extremely ripe yet highly-focused personality packed with citrus and oak flavors.  This wine is so concentrated and ripe that, with bottle age, the wood flavors will be absorbed by the fruit.  Anticipated maturity: 2000-2006.  Frequently the most massive of Chablis' grand crus, the Chablis Les Clos has huge amounts of glycerin as its legs appear to be in suspended animation on the sides of the glass.  It reveals a super rich and deep nose with toast and wet stone scents and a hugely powerful, thick, luscious, full-bodied, bone dry, and tight-fisted core of racy citrus fruits, minerals, flint and ever so slight touches of spicy oak (even though it was aged in 30% new oak).  Its brawn, impeccable balance and extremely long cuvée, the Chablis Blanchots Réserve de L'Obédiencerie (200 cases) is crafted from a selection of the finest barrels of Chablis Blanchots.  Interestingly, it has none of the strong oak scents and flavors found in the firm's regular Chablis Blanchots even though the same percentage of new oak (20%) went into its assemblage.  This fabulous wine displays a floral, mineral, and pear-scented nose as well as a tangy, highly-delineated and focused personality.  Concentrated, silky-textured, and full-bodied, it has beautiful purity and elegance to its steel and flint-like flavors that seem to go on forever in its interminable finish.  It should be at its peak between 2002 and 2010 (Note: In 1995, Laroche bottled the entire production of the Obédiencerie in magnums, but had not decided whether to continue that policy with the 1996 when I met with him.  The price listed is for a 750ml bottle.)  Importer: Paterno Imports, Lake Bluff, IL; tel (312) 247-7070.

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NN-WA-4/98